David’s Mai Lai Wah

The familiar green-tiled awning of David’s Mai Lai Wah occupies the very most central corner in Chinatown, and the technicolor neon signs outside and in the window welcome guests with the promise of cocktails, noodles and the “best food in town.”

Hong Kong native David Chan opened his no-nonsense eatery in 1982, introducing generations of Philadelphians to dumplings and noodle dishes.

Revered for its salt and pepper wings strewn with sliced chile peppers and its luxuriantly late hours (the kitchen is open until 3 a.m.), David’s manages to stay relevant in a passionate food city without ever having to change a thing.